Getting to Puerto Barrios
From Guate
There's a public bus, but there are also tours taking in Copan, Quirigua and Rio Dulce in 2 days. Entrance to the ruins of Quirigua is 25 Q (12/98). The train is not functionning anymore (11/98).
From Chiquimula
There are direct buses leaving in Chiquimula at the Pullman bus station, a bit below the busterminal. The trip takes a bit more then 4 hours and costs 20 Q (8/98). First bus leaves at 5 am.
If you want to go further to Livingston, make sure you arrive in Puerto Barrios before 5 pm since the last boat leaves at 5 pm (sometimes even a bit earlier).
From Flores
You have to take the bus to Guatemala City, one traveller said he had to pay the full fare (180 Q). Get off at La Ruidosa and take another bus to Puerto Barrios (10 Q). Take a first class bus since the road is very heavy.
Puerto Barrios
There's not much to see in Puerto Barrios.
If you get stuck there, there's the Hotel International. They charge 96 Q for a double room with bathroom. They have a swimming pool and breakfast is quite good.
Hotel Europa has decent rooms with bathroom and fan for 60 Q, it's close to the ferry (11/98).
Getting to Livingston
Arriving in Puerto Barrios, tell the driver you want to go to Livingston, and he'll drop you near the embarcadero. From there it's a 10 minutes trip to the boat.
There are 2 regular boats, 1 leaving in the morning, and 1 leaving at 5 pm, costing 8 Q, this trip takes 90 minutes (8/97).
Otherwise you can take watertaxis ("lancha") which leave when they're full. They charge 20 Q, it's a 30 minutes trip (8/98).
Livingston
Hotels
The Tucan Dugu Hotel and the Rio Dulce Hotel are fancy, but I don't have any info on them.
There are a number of hotels in a street on the left side just before the start of a hill.
The Hotel Caribe charges 24 Q for basic rooms with communal bathrooms (not really clean though). Staff is friendly 8/97).
Rigolletto-Pizzeria Guesthouse is owned by a Mexican lady. She charges 65 Q for a double without bathroom. She cooks extremely well. Another report says they were unfr
iendly (11/98).
Hotel Viajero: from the pier it's the first street on the left when you've passed the bank. Rooms are clean and have a fan, no hot water, 30 Q for a double. No meals (11/97).
Vista Al Mar has very clean rooms without bathroom for 35 Q including breakfast. Staff is very friendly. At the pier, take the small road left and then before the bridge take right (11/98).
Something special in Lvingston is La Marina Bungalows. It's difficult to get there, but they usually have a tout waiting for the boat. During the rainy season, you can only get there by boat. Go to the small embarcadero behind the Hotel Caribe and take a boat (5 Q). They have basic bungalows at 21 Q pp including a good breakfast. They have a nice bar/restaurant with view over the river. It's owned 2 Argentinians and a Canadian. Their pizza's are great, and they organise their own trips on the river. They're going to Livingston twice a day by boat.
Casa Rosada is a very nice place with 8 to 10 individual bungalows around a restaurant right on the waters edge. A double room is 20 US$. You can have lobster for about 100 Q.
Banks
There are 2 banks now in Livingston, but exchange rates are bad.
Restaurants
The restaurant of Exotic Travel is OK.
Boattrip on Rio Dulce
Leaving from Livingston, the boat leaves at 9 am, with sometimes some delay. They charge 50 Q for the 2 hour trip, 75 Q if you take a return ticket. On the way, you'll see the nature and birds living along the river, a hot water source etc... The Biotopo Chocon-Machacas is overcharging at 30 Q pp, the Castillo de San Felipe is nice for 5 Q pp.
Other trips
It's also possible to make a trip to the jungle visiting waterfalls etc. with a garifuna guide.
Casa Guatemala Centre for Malnourished children
On the banks of the Rio Dulce near the town of Fronteras, there's a private orphanage run by Mrs. Angelina de Galdamez. Most of the people working there are volunteers from all over the world. It's only accessible by boat. It is possible to do volunteer work there. The work you do is quite hard, but also rewarding. Minimum length of stay is 3 months, and don't expect too much of Western luxury there. If you're interested, it's best to go to their Guate office first at 14 Calle 10-63, Zona 1. It's not really necessary to contact them on beforehand. They'll give you info on the job and how you can get there.
There was an earthquake (6/7/99) in this region, and the Casa Guatemala was badly hit.
Go to El Peten
