We went to Honduras in May 2000. This was my third visit to central America, after 2 visits to both Guatemala and different parts of Mexico, so I already knew a bit what to expect. The mainland of Honduras is definitely an off-the-beaten-track destination. Of course, May is low season, but we hardly saw any tourists on the mainland. The Bay Islands are of course more touristic.

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Getting to Honduras by air Possibilities to get to Honduras by air from the US or Europe ar still fairly limited (5/2000). From the US, you have these options: TACA has direct daily flights to San Pedro Sula from New Orleans and Miami. These flights are fairly expensive (count on 500 to 600 US$ for a return ticket). Their plane was pretty new, and service on board was excellent. However, they sometimes dare to cancel flights of they don't have enough passengers (happened the day before I flew with them).

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If there's 1 guidebook I want to recommend, then it's the "Honduras & Bay Islands guide" published in August 1999 by Open Road publishers. OK, they're not so famous as LP and Moon, but for Honduras they're definitely the best with very up to date info on both practical things like hotels and transportation, and nature reserves. You'll find good info on rafting, and extensive reviews of most of the hotels. It's written by an American living in Copan.

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We arrived on a Saturday, with all the banks closed. Getting through customs was fairly easy, in fact we were one of the few tourists on the plane, and we weren't checked at all. Once you get out of the exit hall, you'll be approached by money changers. If they see you're new, they'll try to rip you off with a lousy rate. If you don't know the rate yourself, simply go to the entrance hall, and you'll find 3 exchange boots where the rates are shown.

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We went with Transportes Gama. They have 2 buses a day, one at 7 am (leaving in fact around 7.20 am), and one at 3 pm. Price is 50 L, the trip takes about 3 hours including multiple stops along the way. Don't expect AC or reclining seats (as their advertisements suggest). Casasola has a bus at 2 pm, and Etumi one at 11 am and 1 pm.

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While I prepared my trip, I was a bit hesitating whether I would stop in Tela or not. I had read a lot of reports from other travellers saying Tela was unsafe, and indeed robberies at knife?s point and rapings especially on the beach at night have been reported. Still I decided to go for it, and I?m not sorry about that decision. I dare say that Tela was one of the highlights of our stay on the mainland, so I think it?s a must for anyone visiting Honduras.

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La Ceiba was in my opinion not as nice as Tela. It's a bigger city, not so cosy. Also a local told us to be careful at night, even with some taxidrivers. What bothered us most though was the fact that tours to nature parks like Pico Bonito and Cuero y Salada were very expensive at 75 and 80 US$, this is much more expensive then the tours in Tela.

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There are numerous flights from San Pedro Sula (40 minutes) and La Ceiba (20 minutes). Check the general info 1 page for info on schedules and prices. There's also a daily direct flight to Belize city. You can also go by boat. At the airport you can take a taxi. A trip to West End will cost you 10 US$. You can also simply walk to the main road (a 1 minute walk), and jump in one of the public minibuses. I don't know about the price, but that'll be much cheaper.

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