We went to Sulawesi in May 1998, in the middle of the political crisis, but we didn't experience any problems. Because of this, there were very few tourists, and there were great bargains to be had especially in the big 5-star hotels.

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The airport is at 20 km from UP center, and not so far from the bus station. Taxi's to the center cost 17.000 Rp, to the busstation should be less. If you take a good hotel like the Radisson, just call them and they will send a free car to pick you up. There are 4 flights a day to Manado, all departing in the morning. Be careful at the airport: You will undoubtedly be approached by a guy who will try to sell you a tour to Toraja. As long as he only brings you to a hotel in UP, it's OK, but don't go with them on a tour. We were approached too, and he brought us to his office.

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Best hotel in town is Hotel Sapolohe (not in LP-guide). They have seaview, rooms have AC and hot water and cost 125.000 Rp without breakfast. They have a very nice garden with bonsai trees. Another possibility is the View Inn Hotel. Their location is excellent, but rooms could be better. They were installing AC in their rooms. The restaurant is good and well located.

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From UP, you should go to the bus station. We arrived at 11 am, and they told us the next bus was at 2 pm. So we decided to charter a bemo. This costed 65.000 Rp. and took us a bit more then 4 hours. First you follow the coast, and North from Barru, you go into the mountains where the scenery is beautiful. From Rantepao you need to take a bus for UP and change at Uluale (locals call it Lowowoj).

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There are extremely comfortable buses from Litha company running several times a day, including a night bus departing at 9 pm and arriving around 5 am. If departing from Rantepao, these buses can drop you at UP airport if you wish. Price was 28.000 for the marvellous AC bus. If going or coming from Sengkang, you need to change buses on the way. These buses are much less comfortable. If coming to Rantepao, you will probably be joined by a tout coming on the bus at Makale and trying to sell you a tour or a hotel. We did a tour the first day with his driver, but didn't like it. Also, we were discouraged by him in everything we wanted to do like walking from Lemo to Lemo to Tilangga.

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Most people take the boat from Pendolo to Tentena, this is a 3 hour boattrip leaving in the morning. If you have your own transport (4x4) the most beautiful road is a track going along the western shore of the lake. However, if it has rained, you will not succeed. There's also an orchid garden where you can spend the night, but you have to bring your own food. Accomodation is basic, no electricity but beautiful white sand beach.

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We arrived in Poso about 11:00 PM. The bus dropped us off at the Kasintuwu terminal. Based on the guidebooks, the Losmen Lalango Jaya looked good so that?s where we headed. When we got there, the gate was locked, and banging, rattling, and shouting didn?t produce the desired results. We walked through the harbour to Jl. Pattimura, where we found the Wisata all locked up and in darkness as well. We then headed away from the beach to the Peningapan Ideal. There was an old guy there, who told us that there was no vacancy.

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There is a daily flights from Ujung Pandang (1 in the morning). Be careful for cancellations. There used to be 2 flights a day from Manado, but Bouraq has suspended their flights, and Merpati are resuming now 3 or 4 flights every week, but cancellations are still frequent. There are buses from Tentena over Poso to Palu. The road is good, except between Tiboli to Tawaeli (this is from the east to the westcoast). There is restricted traffic on this part of the road: from west to east you can go in the morning around 9 am, in the other direction it's in the afternoon around 4 pm. It's muddy when raining and dusty when dry, and there are plenty of potholes. There are spectacular views, but it's still a dangerous road.

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The boat leaving every Friday evening directly to the togians no longer exists (2/2002). There's a boat leaving every other night around 9 to 10 pm in the evening arriving in the morning in Pagimana, then you have to take a bus to Ampana, and then take a boat to Bomba. you can rent a mattress to sleep. From Ampana there are boats to Bomba ( 2 km out off the city ) in the morning at around 10 am - 10000 Rp. Also boats to Wakai 20000 Rp or the boat of the Kadidiri Paradise goes direct to Kadidiri. There is an new ferry in Ampana but still not in use and nobody nows when it will start to operate.

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We stayed at the Melati hotel, run by Alex and his family. There was an older section and a spotless newer section built around a beautiful courtyard, with a range of rooms, including air-con. We picked a large fan-cooled double in the new section at Rp 50,000 + 10% tax, including breakfast. This was a relaxing, friendly, and helpful place. Melati hotel, Alamat Jln. Gajah Mada 33, tel 21853-22934 Update 10/2001: Room rates: air condition rooms = Rp 75.000 double/night fan rooms = Rp 50.000 double/night economic rooms Rp 35.000 double/night all incl. breakfast and 10% ...

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