Our only destination on Seram was Sawai Bay, on the north central coast, and we were only able to stay there for three days. A few weeks would have been nice ? as there are a lot of things to see and do in the area (both water and jungle-related), and it?s another one of those quiet lazy places ideal for doing nothing at all if that?s what you feel like. Our decision to visit Sawai was based on a few postings on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree.

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Stroll through the extremely friendly village, observing how bearable life can be without television, electricity, or phones. Wander to further villages for more of the same. Duck into the jungle where you?ll see some huge butterflies, but watch out for the giant spiders who build their webs across the paths. Sit on the dock staring into the clear water and all the fish, coral, sponges, anemones, urchins, starfish, and, if you?re lucky, turtles.

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Our 3 days in the Bandas were just a taste. To explore all the accessible islands in the small group properly would take more than a week, and it would be a great place to just relax and do nothing for a while too. It?s a very laid back place ? quiet and friendly. We spoke to the nephew of the owner of our guest house who was home for the holidays from university in Ambon. He was bored because there were no discos or nightclubs in the Bandas. May it always remain so.

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Chances are that someone at your hotel will try to arrange various excursions for you. It doesn?t hurt to shop around, and of course taking a public boat will cost a small fraction compared to chartering one. Due to the lack of other travellers to share with, when we were there, some possible charters were quite expensive.

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