new Morocco - Marakesh

Arriving in Marrakesh

By plane
- I arrived by plane in Marrakesh airport. We had to queue a little bit, but finally everything went smooth. No touts at the airport. There is only 1 money exchange boot, rates are the same as in the city.
- A trip into town should certainly not cost more then 50 DH, although I got slightly ripped off with 60 DH in a minibus with 6 other tourists.

By bus/collective taxi
The busstation is just outside the old city, in the direction of the new city. A petit taxi to your hotel should cost no more then 20 DH.

By train
The railway station is about 1 km away from the busstation.

Where to stay

Budget

- The budget place to be in Marrakesh is Hotel Ali, near to the Djemaa el Fnaa. It has everything the backpacker wants: decent rooms with hot showers for about 150 DH for a double, a very good eat-as-much-as-you-can dinner buffet for 50 DH, an internet café (expensive at 20 DH an hour) and a popular travel agency organising all kind of trips. If you want to stay there, it is adviseable to book ahead over the internet. Their e-mail address is hotelali@hotmail.com.
- More info on the trips they organise: look at the Toubkal and Ouarzazate chapters.

Luxurious

The Meridien
The Meridien is a marvellous rather lowrise hotel just outside the old city, near the Marrakesh conference center. It has been recently renovated. They have a nice swimming pool. Breakfast is good, but expensive for what it is. Rooms have AC, minibar, TV and safe. Price is around 1600 DH for a double.
Es Saadi
The Es Saadi hotel has a long reputation as luxury hotel in Marrakesh, just outside the old city. It is a definitely less modern then the Meridien, and it is also a highrise hotel with less spacious grounds, but they try to make up for this with personnal service, and a lot of their clients come there for years on end. They have their own website at www.essaadi.com.

What to do?

Djemaa el-Fnaa
This is of course a marvellous place full of life, especially at night. I suppose you have to be a bit careful with the food there. If you want to have a good view over the place, go to one of the roof restaurants like the Central Market restaurant. I went there for a good breakfast and a marvellous view. I was less impressed with the Argana restuarant.
The Souqs
It's OK to stroll around there, but never buy something without having knowledge of the price I remember that a couple of years ago, a good rule in souqs was to divide the price they asked by 2 or 3, and then you were more or less right. But now, it's no exaggeration to say that asking prices are 10 times the normal price. Once I asked the price of a small wooden jigsaw puzzle, and they started with 650 DH !!! I didn't even bother to bargain there and bought it somewhere else for just 45 DH. This can also happen to you in the mountains, make no mistake about that. For a stone there they asked at first 500 DH, I finalle got it for 60 DH (which was probably still too much). So, definitely ask around and bargain hard.
Menara Garden
This is definitely a place worth visiting. The gardens themselves are not particular, but the small building next to the pond, with the Atlas mountains behind are really beautiful There no entrance fee for the moment, a taxi to get there from the old city should cost around 15 DH. Try to go there in late afternoon.
Palais de la Bahia
Is OK for a short visit, but don't expect too much of it. entrnace 10 DH. Close-by is the Palais el-Badi which I didn't visit
Museum of
the friends of Marrakesh
This is a very beautiful museum situated in a beautifully restored palace. When I was there, they had an exposition on musical instruments, and there was an exhibition with photo's on Moroccon life. entrance 30 DH.
Ali Ben Youssef Medersa
This is an Islamic school next to the Museum of the friends of Marrakesh. it's said to be nice, but I didn't visit it.
Tanneries
From the museum it's a 15 minutes walk to the tanneries of Marrakesh. Otherwise you could take a taxi to the Bab Debbagh, there you wil undoubtedly be awaited by touts wiling to show you around for a fee. The tanneries were a bit of a disappointment. I expected to see the colourfull scenes I saw on pictures, but apparently this is only visible in Fes, not in Marrakesh.
Quad racing
There's a Belgian guy who has about 20 quads near the Palmariva hotel way out of town, but they provide a free pick up from your hotel. Price is about 400 DH for half a day. For that price you get an introduction into how to drive the Quad, and then you drive through the desert and the palmeraies. You also make a stop for tea somewhere. In total this takes from 2 pm til 5 pm. I quite liked it, although I would have preferred to go a bit faster, but you also depend on the other people of the group concerning speed.
Trip to Cascades d'Ouzoud
The Cascades d'Ouzoud can be visited on a day trip from Marrakesh. Hotel Ali arranges trips, and if they have 4 people, it'll cost you 200 DH p.p. However, in dry season, you should seriously consider whether you should go there at all, because there won't be much water left, so I decided not to go.

Where to eat

- The Rue de Bab Agnaou, a pedestrian street starting at the Djemaa el F'naa is a popular street to take a stroll with plenty of terraces where you can eat. One of the best pastry shops is here, the Patisserie des Princes. They also have excellent ice cream.
- The Argana restaurant offers good views over the Djemaal el F'naa, but of course the best places are usually taken, so you'll probably end up on a table without view. I was not impressed by their couscous.
- The Hotel Ali has a good dinner buffet for 50 DH. Hotel guests are supposed to pay 60 DH, but you can bargain on that.   One night I went to Dar Mimoun restaurant. it is a bit difficult to find in a side alley of the Djemaa El F'naa. This is a nice middle class restaurant around a tree-shaded courtyard. I went one evening and there were few people, foor was good and plentyfull. I paid 100 DH for a starter and main course.
- If you crave for some western food, there's a Pizza Hut on the way from the old town to the new town, and there's also a Mc donalds but that's pretty far out of town.

Renting a car

- All the big companies have offices in Marrakesh, however you can usually get better prices with the local companies For a small car without driver, count on 300 DH per day.
- If you want to do the Kasbah route, I advise to go to Ouarzazate and rent a car there. It is cheaper, you can easily get a driver, and at least they know the region much better so you can better decide on your itinerary.

Getting out

By plane
Royal Air Maroc has 7 flights a day to Casablanca, usual price is 1701 DH, but you can get discounts.
Train
See general info 1 for the schedule for trains to Casablanca and further on to fez or Tetouan. Bus
Several buses available to a lot of places in Morocco, especially Essaouira and places South.

Go to info on Ouarzazate & the Kasbah route

Article Comments:

04/24/2006
tupak (1)
mooi land toch

02/28/2006
nora bonetti (1)
I'm just about to start a Tour in Morocco. I found this page very practical and useful. In fact one of the tours I have booked starts in Hotel Ali (Robbin Yagger morocco ex plored.com). I had the same impression as your comments, through some pics in the net, about hotel Ali, but this Tavel Agent discouraged me to stay there. He told me to book at the Hotel I have been booked by another Tour (Grand Imilchil). After I read your comments I might change my mind and stay At Hotel Ali that is nice budget !! Thanks and Good Luck, Nora