Introduction

I want to stress the point that I don’t consider myself to be an expert on trekking in Nepal. In fact, I just did the 7-day Jomsom trek, that’s all. So all the info given here should not necessarily be taken for a fact. These are things I heard from other travelers, read in books or leaflets or experienced myself.

Getting informed

Talk with other people
- You can easily get info from other people through the internet, or along the way (but it might be too late by then).
- Another good source for me was a talk by Chris Beall in the KTM Guesthouse. This is an English guy who regularly stays for longer periods in Nepal since 1984. He guides for some foreign companies, and he gives slide shows. They cost 300 Rp, they take between 90 and 120 minutes, and then there’s time for questions. It was really worth the money.

Books
- The regular guidebooks will already give you a good overview of what trekkings are available. However, if you want to go into detail, it’s better to buy an extra guide.
- Lonely Planet has the "Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya" which is OK, but if you’re going to 1 particular region, it’s better to buy the "Trekking in the Annapurna region" (1999 with amendment 2001) from Brynn Adams or the "Trekking in the Everest region" from Jerry McGuinness (2002). I’ve bought the Annapurna book, and it gives you some detailed info on the trails and some of the things you can see along the way. There’s also info on lodges, but these things change. Actually half of the book is about preparations for the trek etc… These books are usually a bit cheaper in Nepal, and you can also buy a cheaper second hand version.

How to do it

On your own
For some treks, this is a perfectly feasible option. In fact, the Jomsom trek I did can be easily done without a guide or porter. Even the whole circuit, providing you don’t do it in winter, can also be done without guide. Most people I met did it that way. It’s virtually impossible to get lost, except when there’s snow on Thorung La. Sometimes the track forks, usually because there has been a landslide further up, and then your guide will know the right way, but you’ll never loose a lot of time with this. Also in dry season your guide will know a shortcut through the riverbed, but if you follow the locals you can find that out yourself.

With a guide you find yourself
This is what I basically did. Someone recommended a guide to me, I contacted him through e-mail, he arranged a porter and met us at the airport and off we went. This option is not so expensive. A guide costs around 10 $ a day for easier treks, a porter 6 $ a day. A tip is expected. I think this money was well spent as you give someone a job they like to do. Also a guide can explain you some things and translate, but this is not really that important. All lodge owners speak at least some basic English.

Through an agency
- Both in Pokhara and Thamel, you’ll find 1 agency next to the other. I can’t help you which to choose.
- I just picked 1 out to test in Pokhara, and they demanded 30 $ per day for a porter and guide including food, lodging and entry permit. This price drops to 25 $ per day when you’re with 2 people. A lot of companies now offer just the personnel, and you can choose (and pay) the lodges and food yourself. This is probably a better option than the all-in formula.
- Other companies can be much more expensive and will ask up to 100 $ per day. They tend to be more reliable especially in case something goes wrong (altitude sickness…), so you have to decide for yourself whether you think this is worth the money. This will probably also depend on which trek you’ll do.
- If you do a completely independent trek, then you’ll spend more money anyway. You’ll need a guide, porters, cook, kitchen help and you’ll have to bring camping gear and food with you.
- Combinations of tents and teahouses are also possible. Some companies do a trek to the Mera Peak at 6500 m. They sleep in lodges for 12 days, and once they go higher up to base camp and highcamp, they start camping. The trip to Mera Peak costs 1400$ including everything (also flights to Lukla). This price drops when there are more people in the group as the permit for the group alone costs 350 $.
 
Which trek to choose?

Annapurna - Everest - Lang Tang?
This is also difficult for me to answer as I only did the Jomsom trek. However, I talked to many people about it, and most will agree that the

Annapurna circuit is a great way of starting. It gives both scenery and village life combined with excellent lodging and food.Annapurna Sanctuary and Everest treks offer more mountains, less villages and comfort. Up to you to decide.

Within Annapurna region
This will depend upon your time, but there are various possibilities:
3 days:
You could go to Gorepani in 2 days, do Poon Hill the third day and return in 1 day. Personally I wouldn’t do this as the climb up to Gorepani is pretty hard, and you’d have to backtrack.
Otherwise you could fly to Jomsom, then to Kagbeni, Muktinath and Marpha, and return by flight on day 3
4 days:
The classical trip here would be the Poon hill trek: go to Gorepani in 2 days, see Poon Hill the third day and then come back via Gandruk.
Another possibility is the Royal trek.
You could even fly to Jomsom and come back in 4 days via Beni. This hike does not include any serious climbs.
5 days:
Jomsom trek without Muktinath coming back via Beni or Birethanti
6 – 7 days
In 6-7 days, you can do the classical Jomsom trek including Kagbeni and Muktinath, and come back via Beni (6 days) or Gorepani (7 days)
7 days will also get you into the Annapurna sanctuary.

Annapurna circuit
This will take between 17 and 21 days, if you go into the Annapurna sanctuary, it’ll take up to 28 days.

Jomsom trek
- This is probably the most popular trek in Nepal for people who don’t have the time to do the whole circuit. It offers great scenery, nice villages and good accommodation and food.
- You’ll have to decide whether you walk in and fly out or vice versa. Both have advantages:
Walk in – fly out
The advantage is that you’ll get gradually more adapted to the altitude.The disadvantage is that you’ll have to do the very difficult climb towards Gorepani (unless you go through Beni), you have 1 or 2 days more of climbing (you go from 1100 m to 2800 m), and when you fly out, you might get stuck in Jomsom if the weather is bad, or if overbooking has occurred. Take this into account when scheduling your international flight.
Fly in – walk out
Just the opposite. I took this option as I was already adapted to altitude after my trip to Bhutan.

Safety while trekking

Getting sick, or even worse having a serious accident is not what you have in mind. Therefore, it’s important to be well prepared, not to overestimate yourself and be careful.

When you’re just going to do the Jomsom trek including Muktinath (3800 m), this will not be a major problem. However, you will feel it when not adapted to the altitude: your physical capacity will decrease and this will manifest itself through shortness of breath and heartbeats. So it is still worth to get adapted slowly to the altitude before doing any serious effort.

You will automatically adapt when you start your Jomsom trek from Beni or Birethanti, as you gradually go higher and you’ll spend 3 days above 2500 meters before going to Muktinath. When flying in from Pokhara to Jomsom, this will not be the case, so that’s a disadvantage. However, I was with a Russian couple who had done this, and apparently they could cope with it.

When you do the whole Annapurna circuit with Thorung La at 5400, and also for certain treks in the Everest region, altitude sickness can be a real problem and adaptation to the altitude becomes vital. This can be done by spending an extra day for acclimatization (e.g. in Manang for Annapurna circuit), and doing a hike during that day at higher altitude and coming back for the night to Manang.

Accidents do happen, and every year a few people die because of this on the Circuit.

One problem is avalanches in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The risk for this is highest from end of February till middle of April. If you still want to risk it during this period, I wouldn’t do it without an experienced guide who knows where and when to walk safely. Risk is lowest during early morning and becomes higher once the snow starts melting because of the sun. Also avoid trekking after a snow storm.

Another accident which can happen has to do with mules. You’ll pass plenty of them, especially on the Beni-Jomsom part of the trek. When you pass them, always stand on the mountainside of the path. If you stand on the riverside, an inadvertent move of the mule might push you in the river. This happened to an Israeli girl 2 years ago. Her body was found 20 km downstream a few days later.

Airplanes crash now and then in the Annapurnas, more or less once every 2 years. Latest crash was a Shangrila plane in august 2002. This usually happens in monsoon season, so take it a little bit into account.

Most important thing is to avoid getting it. Never drink from water in the mountains, no matter how clean it looks, there can always be a contamination with animal faeces.

Along the Annapurna circuit, a good system of distribution of ozonated water has been put up with the help of the Kiwi government. This water is very safe, relatively cheap at 35 to 40 Rp per liter and above all, it prevents you from using plastic bottles with mineral water which cannot be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way. These ‘safe water stations’ can be found in these villages (3/03):
- Tal, Bagarchap, Chame, Pisang, Hongde, Manang, Thorung Phedi on the east side
- Muktinath, Kagbeni, Jomsom, Marpha, Tukuche, Larjung, Lete, Ghasa on the Western side. Lete was not open when I passed.

Another option is to use Iodine tablets. You can by them at KEEP in KTM and Pokhara.

Another thing is to avoid risky food or drinks. Lassi (=Nepali Yogurt) is a good example.  I met 2 girls who got terribly sick 6 hours after drinking a lassi.Altitude sickness
- Accidents
- Traveler’s diarrhea
- Dehydration

When trekking, make sure you drink enough water, even if you’re not thirsty. It’s better to drink 5 times 100 ml then drinking 500 ml at once. This is even more so at higher altitude and lower temperatures. Your breath is much warmer then the temperature, so it becomes more saturated with water, and you’ll loose more fluid by breathing then usual.

You could also put minerals and sugar in this water. Isostar and other brands sell powder which you can mix in your water. It also takes away the bad taste of iodinated water. You will not readily find these products in Nepal.

What to take?

This will of course depend a bit on which trek you’ll do, when you’ll do it, how high you’ll go, whether it’s a teahouse trek or a tented trek etc…. Nevertheless, here’s a list which can give you an idea:
- 1 pair of decent hiking boots, preferably higher then the ankle
- 1 daypack for you + rucksack for the porter. A porter can carry 30 kg!
- 1 four season sleeping bag: some lodges have coverings if necessary1 all-weather anorak with fleece, or 1 down jacket. When doing Thorung La, you'll probably need more warm clothes.
- 1 pair of waterproof gaiters/overtrousers when going high
- 2 lightweight trousers, when going thermal underwear is a good idea, can also help while sleeping in your sleeping bag when it’s freezing. Trousers with zippers can double as shorts, although it’s better not to wear shorts in order not to offend local people.
- 2-3 T-shirts
- 1 long sleeve cotton shirt for to protect neck and arm in case of sunburn.
- 2-3 pairs of socks. I use the synthetic socks which dry fast.Sunglasses, sunhat and suncream are essential
- Warm hat and gloves if going high
- 1 torch-flashlight is important. Often there is no electricity, or only during certain periods of the night.
- 1 Swiss army knife, although I never used mine
- 1 or 2 towels (maximum medium size, they weigh heavy)
- Camera and film. I also had 1 black and white film which was great.
- Toiletries and toilet paper. You won't find paper in toilets, but you can buy it on the trail.
- Bottle of water, maybe also Isostar powder and Iodine tablets

General remarks

- Cost of living is rather low along the trail. A single room without bathroom costs around 50 Rp, with bathroom is 150 to 250 Rp. Food is about 80 Rp for a soup, and 100 to 200 for a main course. It’s especially beer and drinks which will increase your budget. You can also get such things as Snickers, Twix etc...
- Try to get up early. You’ll get the best light for pictures.
- A room with private bathroom usually guarantees a hot shower as you’ll have a private boiler. If you have a common bathroom, try to be the first.

Go to Outdoor activities (Mountain biking-Rafting-Paragliding)

Article Comments:

07/31/2006

Surendra Paudyal (1)

If anybody wants to find an individual or a company to assist him/her in Nepal can write a mail in my mail address: spvolcano(at) hotmail or gmail.com

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