Introduction
This page on the mountains includes the region east of Atitlan, i.e. Chichicastenango, Qeutzaltenango, Huehuetenango and villages around.
You can find much more practical info on a site called Xelapages.
Chichicastenango
Getting there
There are regular tourist shuttles going there
Panajachel-Chichi: 7 US$ one way Antigua-Chichi: 9 US$ one way
Apart from that, there's also a direct public bus on market days leaving from Panajachel. It's quite a long trip, about 2-3 hours. From Antigua it is even longer, but with a tourist bus it's 2 1/2 hours, still I advise against this since you'll miss Atitlan which is very nice, and I prefer the Solola market above the Chichi market.
Hotels
There will be touts hanging around the busstation trying to sell you a room. Hospedaje Salvador charges 66 Q for a double with bath (12/97). Hotel Gibon is quite nice, clean and charges 90 Q for a room with bathroom, hot water and a terrace. They have a courtyard serving as parking (8/98).
What to do
Everybody comes here on market days of course. I must say it was quite a disappointment for us. We had seen Solola first, which is an authentic, colorful and lively market. This market has an authentic center, but around that are streets and streets full of souvenirstalls. I must admit we came here only the day of the market, but if you have the time you could come here 1 day earlier, so you can see the building of the market and see how the town changes. The Santo Tomas church is quite nice, especially the entrance full of smoke. There's a small museum, nothing special. The ruins of Utatlan are not worth the trip.
Quetzaltenango = Xela
Getting there
By public bus (60 Q) or tourist bus. From Guate it takes 4 hours. There are also daily flight from Guate costing 44 US$ (8/98).
Getting away
Buses to the Rotonda leave at the back of the tourism office (0,5 Q). Buses to Tot leave at the Rotonda (2,25 Q). Buses to Zunil leave from 9 Av. Calle 9 (2 to 3 Q). All prices 11/98.
Hotels
Casa Kaehler at 200 m from the Parque Central is very cosy and owned by an old lady
. She charges 48 Q for a double without bathroom. Hot water, linnen is clean but the walls are a bit thin and rooms a bit moisty. Good value (8/98). Rio Azul is clean, service can be a bit cool, 70 Q for a double (11/98).
Restaurants
Tecun has good snacks, it's cosy and you can phone or e-mail quite cheaply (11/98). Capuchino serves only hamburgers, nice place but not really good (11/98). Restaurant Bonifas is quite fancy, nice and expensive, but food could be better (11/98).
What to do ?
Xela is a modern town with nice buildings and a daily market. It's possible to climb Volcan Tajumlco, the highest peak in Central America at 4220 metres. It's a moderate 5 hour climb. Tours are being organised for 35 US$ pp including transportation, food and equipment. You will spend the night just below the summit.
You can go to Salcaja. Try to meet Victo Estrada, who looks after the church. He will lead you around the local weaving industry. The trip takes 3 hours and costs 50 Q. Totonicapan is a typical town with narrow alleys. Market on tuesday. Very few tourists. Mixed reports.
Zunil: mixed reports. It's (too) quiet if you don't go on market days.
Almolonga (on the way to Zunil) was more lively (it was market day).
San Francisco El Alto is only interesting for its animal market on Friday, but that's worth it. You can have a good view on the market from the roof of the church (1 Q).
Huehuetenango - Todos Santos
Getting there
Xela to Huehue takes 2 hours, from there it's 3 hours to Todos Santos over a magnificent road.
What to do ?
The village itself is nothing special, but the people have marvellously colorful clothing. There are marvellous walks to be made in the neighbourhood.
Hotels
Todos Santos Hotels might be fully booked.
La Barraca was full, but the owner can manage an extra room, 15 Q pp.
The Casa Familiar has a new building which is very cosy with a good terrace with views on the mountains. Cheap (15 Q pp). This is the place to head to.
Hotel Nam is very low budget (25 Q for a double) and not really recommended: dirty bathroom, linnen is doubtful, rooms are moisty. Not recommended.
Go to Copan
