I got this info from Malousch Kohler (10/2000)
Pai is a small little town, no mass tourism yet, and I hope that the long curved road will keep it that away. It's 4 hours by bus from Chiang Mai. Pai has a big variety of guesthouses starting with simple bamboo-huts at 50 Baht pp, but has also beautiful resorts in the direct surrounding, up to 700 Baht for a hut. The area has a lot to offer, this can be discovered by mountainbike or motorbike, or by foot. There are several good trekkingcompanies here, a lot offer that same 3 day-package that you get in Chiang Mai. But from here you don't have to sit in the car for so long on the first and last day.
Most trekking companies do 3 days walkingtrek only, as there have been some unpleasant experiences with elephants from one of the tribal villages further up in the jungle. Some companies do not care, though, as long as they make money, so do ask around for recommendations. A great company for 3 days walking is Rung's Trekking, opposite the evening-market. Rung is a great guide, and so is her companion. Here you can be sure that your guide is not taking off in the tribal village at night, to follow his own urge for drugs. The same goes for Pat, the guide from Duang guesthouse. He also sometimes includes rafting in his trips.
But the better recommendation for rafting and elephant rides is Thom' s Elephant Camp. The owner, Thom, is a really friendly woman, who grew up with her elephants, and does trips with them through river or jungle. You can play with them in the river and ride them bare-b
ack. This has been quite spectacular, showering with these enormous friendly elephants, diving under, and feeling how they move. Much better then these trips in big groups, when I was there, never more then 2 elephants went at the same time.
- She has a webpage now, so maybe you could make a link:
http://www.geocities.com/pai_tours.
- She is also re-using her rafts, just like Duang's. I heard from several people that they saw stacks off 50 or 60 once used rafts at the ending point, during a trek from Chiang Mai Companies. What a waste of material!!!! People should be made much more aware of that.
In the dry season you can go bamboorafting on Pai river, but it's not white water. For that you need to take a 2 day tour from Pai to Mae Hong Son, the best for that is Guy from Thai Adventure.
Thom organizes trekkings by foot also, but on a more individual basis. So if you are with a group (at least 4) and you only want to trek with them, she can make you great offers. For most of the companies in Pai: No other groups in the tribal villages, where we spend the nights.
Another great tip for this area: there are hot springs in the south-east, near the Elephant Camp. They are nice for a visit, but rather hot for a bath. 5 minutes away you find ThaPai Spa Camping, where they feed there swimmingpools with water from the hot springs.They have 3 different pools with different temperatures. Really great for a late afternoon-soak, very relaxing.