Getting there
To get to Palenque from Flores, have a look at the El Peten introduction chapter. From Merida there's a comfortable AC nightbus (170 Pesos 12/99). The trip takes 9 hours.
There are also buses to San Cristobal (50 Pesos second class, 70 Pesos first class, but collectivos are faster).
Palenque is also served by Aero Caribe. Check their site for schedules and prices.
Hotels
We stayed at the Maya Tulipan, which is a good middle class hotel situated in the quiet "La Canada" region. It's a 10 minutes walk from the center, very near to the intersection with the Mayan head where it's easy to catch a collectivo to either the ruins or Agua Azul. In high season they charge 510 Pesos for a double with breakfast, bath room, hot water, TV (only Mexican channels), AC and they have a small swimming pool. Safety deposit at the front desk at 10 N$. You can e-mail them at mtulipan@tnet.net.mx. (12/99)
At 100 metres is the bigger Maya Palenque. They charge 500 N$ and give free breakfast in low season. Rooms are clean, have bathroom with hot water, AC, TV and they have a big swimming pool (12/99).
If you're on a budget, the Posada "Kin" at Calle Abasolo S.N. (a side street of the Av. Benito Juarez close to the Zocalo) is really recommended. It's very clean, quiet and still centrally located. They charge 120 Pesos for a double with bathroom including breakfast (12/99).
Posada Bulil-ha is quite good at 80 Pesos for a double with bathroom and fan. It's clean.
On the way from town to the ruins, there's El Panchan. They charge 40 pesos for a double cabana or 10 pesos to hang your hammock under a shelter.
There are also campgrounds around charging 10 pesos pp.
Have a look at the Rough guides selection.
Restaurants
Plenty of restaurants catering for tourists and serving good breakfast. Several restaurants off set menus which can be good values (around 35 to 50 N$ pp). Los Girasoles, El patio and Khan Ha are good choices.
Have a look at the Rough guides selection.
Changing money
Not many options here. There's 1 bank at Benito Juarez opened from 10 am till 3 pm, but TC's only accepted till 1 pm. Their rate was 1 US$ = 9,15 Pesos.
Next door is a money exchange giving 1 US$ = 8,9 Pesos, but they are opened in the evening a swell.
What to do
The ruins
Every 10 minutes there's a collectivo leaving from Calle Allende. It takes 20 minutes to the ruins (5 pesos pp). They are opened from 8 am till 5 pm (25 Pesos 12/99). When we were there, the big tourist buses where there also at 8 am.
Don't forget to bring your swimming suits. There are some nice waterfalls and pools where only few people come.
The Temple of Insriptions was closed for restauration when we where there, also the thomb was closed. We tried to hike in the forest and follow the "Camino al Naranjo" as mentionned on the LP map of the ruins, but we lost track very quickly.
The waterfalls
Plenty of travel agencies are offering the same trip to Misol-Ha and Agua Azul. Apparently they've made a deal that this trip is now costing 120 Pesos (which is a rip off because you can easily get to Agua Azul now by collective for 34 Pesos return). Sometimes they throw in a free breakfast which saves you 20 Pesos.
Misol-Ha is a high waterfall. You'll have a 30 minutes stop. In November the amount of water was really enormous, in July however it'll only be a glimpse of that.
Agua Azul is fantastic, undoubtedly the most beautiful waterfall I've ever seen (didn't go to Victoria or Niagara or Angel Falls yet), but if you go during rainy season, the water will be brown instead of Azul. In November however, it was very clear and plentiful. Be careful for the fish they are selling there, 1 traveller got sick after eating it. It is possible to walk up the waterfalls for a long way, but after 2 km, before going into a canyon, you will probably be stopped by 2 policemen saying it's unsafe to go there. That's a real pitty.
Trips to Yaxchilan and Bonampak
See next chapter
Go to San Cristobal de las Casas
