new Palmyra, Syria - Travel Tips

Tartous-Palmyra

There is a Karnak bus at 3 pm to Homs, but we took a minibus at 1.30 pm to Homs, arrival at 14.45 pm. We had to wait 30 minutes for a minibus to Palmyra, were we arrived at 5 pm.

Once you get off the bus, you will see you're in a completely different Syria. Here, everybody tries to make as much money as possible on the back of the tourist. Forget about taxi rides for 20 S£, prepare for 100 or 200 S£. Needless to say you will probably only enjoy the sights, but not the people, the accommodation or the food. NOTE: a friend of mine didn't agree with this statement: he liked the people, the food and the accommodation in Palmyra (9/99).

The bus from Damascus takes 3 hours and costs 100 S£ (8/98).

Getting out of Palmyra

Buses to Deir-Ez-Zor at 11.30, 13.00, 13.30, 15.00, 17.00, 19.00, 20.00, price is 75 S£.

Buses to Damascus at 12.30, 13.45, 17.00, price is 100 S£.

There are also buses to Homs (65 S£), Al Mayadeen (100 S£), Abu Kamal (125 S£), Al Hasakeh (135 S£) and Qamishli (160 S£). (10/97).

Accommodation

The best option seemed to be the Tower Hotel at 25 US$, but it was full (price 9/99).

There is a nice hotel right at the ruins, the Zenobia. Of course it's quite expensive at 79 US$ including an good breakfast buffet, unless you can team up with a Syrian, they get much better prices (8/98). They accept credit cards.

There's also a Cham Palace Hotel with swimming pool for those who can afford it.

There's also the Sun Motel with reasonable rooms with fan at 275 S£ (9/99).

We stayed at the Afqa hotel, but that was a big mistake. They tried to charge us 30 US$, putting pressure on us like "everything is fully booked in Palmyra, and it's already 6 pm". Still we bargained till 15 US$, but even that was too much. We made them clean the filthy room first, afterwards there was a lot of noise from the owner having fun with Syrian guests. The second night was the worst of all: we suddenly smelled urine on one of our sleeping bags. It turned out other people were sleeping on the roof and had chosen a spot above our room as toilet (9/95). A more recent report says it's still a place to be avoided (9/99).

I got a report from someone who stayed at the Umayad Palace hotel which was recommended by LP. Unfortunately, the place is now a dump. It's not clean, the "lovely courtyard" has become a real mess, bathroom is not good, and you won't get too much hot water. Price is 550 S£ for a double including a reasonable breakfast (10/2000).

The place to be for the budget traveller seems to be the "New Tourist Hotel" at 325 S£ for a double room with shower.

Another place which was recommended by others was Hotel Ashtar, at 20 US$ for a double room.

Recommended also was the Odienat Hotel at 450 S£ for a double room with bathroom and hot water. The place is very clean, owners very friendly (10/97).

The Hotel Citadel tried to charge 1000 S£ for a double, but quickly went down to 500 S£. The rooms are nice and clean and have a western toilet. It's close to the ruins (8/98). Price is now 800 S£ (9/99).

The New Afghana Hotel is recommended. It is very clean and quiet, they charge 275 S£ for a double with private bathroom (8/98).

Al Kaneek Hotel is a good deal at 400 S£ for a clean room with fan (9/99).

The Middle East Hotel behi

nd the Citadel is new, clean and they charge 35 US$ net, but not all rooms have windows to the outside. (9/99).

Restaurants

First night we had a typical chicken meal at a local restaurant.

We also had lunch in the garden of the Zenobia hotel with great views on the ruins.

Traditional Palmyra Restaurant: in the main street in front of Hotel Villa. Very good food, not expensive at 100-150 S£.

Spring Restaurant: Next to Hotel Villa. They have a bedouintent on the roof which is very cosy. Recommended.

The Venus restaurant has become a bit better with good Mensaf. A Heineken beer (the only they have) costs 125 S£ (10/2000).

What to do

Ruins
The ruins are absolutely great. Don't forget to go there at sunset, you will take great pictures. You could take a guide which will cost about 150 S£ (10/97). Take enough water with you.

At the temple of Bel, you pay the usual entrance fee (300 S£), but the ruins are for free. Opened from 8.00 - 13.00 and 14.30 - 16.00. It's closed on Tuesdays.

Palmyra Rest Garden
In front of the Zenobia Hotel. Not too expensive to have a drink, and you can swim in the pool.Other options for a swim include the new swimming pool next to the Temple of Bel, or the Cham Palace hotel.

Arab Castle
We took a taxi to the top. Expect to pay at least 100 S£ for a one way trip. As entrance, you now pay 200 S£ (10/2000).

The castle and the sights are definitely worth the effort and the money.

We walked down the mountain, but be careful there. A Frenchman in front of us broke his foot there.

Desert graves
At specific hours, there are tours starting from the museum to the graves. Ticket costed 200 S£ (10/2000), there was no control of this ticket.

This does not include the price of the taxi. Price is 200S£, but of course you can share with 5 or 6 people.

The graves are OK, nothing too spectacular though.

Clever Syrians now try to sell cold cans for 75 to 100 S£ (10/2000).

Museum
Opening hours from 8.00 - 13.00 and 14.30 - 16.00, closed on Tuesday. Entrance is 300 S£, only 15 S£ with student card. A friend of mine said it's not worth the 300 S£ (9/99).

People who did it say it's best to do first the museum and afterwards the ruins. There's a model of the temple of Bel, so you'll have a better idea of how it was like.

Qasr Al Hayr A Sharqi
We wanted to visit this desert castle, but we were a bit disappointed. We hired an old minibus for 40 US$ with 2 Frenchmen. The trip took us 2 hours to get there. The castle is not much more then 4 outside walls with ruins inside.

We also went to the Bedouins next to the castle, but that wasn't too good either.

Palmyra at sunset

Palmyra as seen from Arab Castle

Go on to Deir-Ez-Zor