Getting there
Both from Palenque as from Tuxtla, it's best to take a collectivo since they go faster then the regular buses.
A regular bus from Palenque takes 5 hours and costs between 50 and 70 Pesos depending on the class you take.
When coming from Oaxaca, you can take a night bus, but make your reservation well ahead.
Hotel
We stayed at the Ciudad Real Residencia at Ben. Juarez 1. This is an excellent very new hotel set in a renovated colonial mansion with 16 large rooms set along 2 courtyards (****). All rooms have TV, bathroom, hot water, telephone, safety deposit box at front desk. They charge 500 Pesos including breakfast. The zocalo is only 1 block away. You can make reservations by e-mail at reservcr@sancristobal.podernet.com.mx, but specify it is for THIS hotel (12/99). They have a second hotel, the Ciudad Real Centro Historico, which is even better located right at the Zocalo. However, I prefer the first one since it is more quiet and rooms are newer. If you insist on staying right on the Zocalo, they have 29 rooms here, reservations at same address (12/99).
In fact, you can easily find good accommodation here, the general rule is the more you pay, the better it gets.
Hotel Monteczuma, Ben. Juarez, they have big rooms with bathrooms and TV, 300 Pesos a double, but 200 Pesos in low season.
Hotel Villa Real, Ben Juarez 8 charges 150 pesos for a double. Have a look at the Rough guides selection.
Restaurants
San Cristobal is an excellent place to get good and cheap food.
Our personal favourite was Paris-Mexico, a French run place which is very popular. They have excellent set menus for 30 to 50 Pesos including a Margerita. Definitely try their Sopa Azteca. They also have breakfasts, but we didn't like the croissants.
The El Sagrario at Madero is also very good with equally good menus.
The El Teatro at 1 de Marzo 8 is also very good but a bit more expensive. Their chocolat mousse is excellent.
La Galeria looked very fancy, but we didn't eat there.
Have a look at the Rough guides selection.
Bakery
Don't miss the excellent bakery La Hojaldra at Av. Insurgentes 45 B. They have superb cakes, cookies and pastries at cheap prices. Open from 8 am till 9.30 pm.
What to do
Shopping
Plenty of shops around the Zocalo. There's also the Indian crafts market next to Santo Domingo church, which is also very colourful.
Walking
Just stroll around the streets of San Cristobal, and watch people cleaning shoes, selling stuff etc....
Visit of the Indian villages
We did the classical tour with Mercedes as described in most guidebooks. Unfortunately, this lady is becoming too popular
, so at the end we did the tour with 25 people, and this was low season. Price is about 80 Pesos. Don't expect a spectacular tour, she will do a lot of talking, about Indian political life, Mexican politics and Indian religion (with also the dirty role which Coca Cola played in replacing the traditional drinks by Coke, setting up a trade in these poor villages). You will go into houses where one particular God is honoured for a year (after one year, the honouring goes to another house since this is a full time job without wage, just honour). In order to meet Mercedes, just go to the Zocalo before 9 am, you'll see her with her colourful umbrella.
Canyon del Sumidero
Don't miss this trip, I liked it very much. It's simply great to be in a speed boat in the sun with walls rising in some places 1200 metres above you.
You can do it as an organised trip from San Cristobal, but I advise against this since it costs 210 Pesos pp, and you can do it very easily and much cheaper on your own.
From San Cristobal, take a collectivo in the direction of Tuxtla (about 90 minutes). There are 2 embarcadero's, one in Chiapa de Chorzo and one in Cahuare. As an independent traveller it's best to go to Chiapa de Chorzo, since these boats fill up quicker, although it involves a bit more walking because the collectivo doesn't drop you at the boats. At Cahuare, the embarcadero is much closer to the main road. In Chiapa you need 12 people for a boat to be filled, and then you'll be charged 60 Pesos pp, in Cahuare they need 10 people for a boat, price is also 60 Pesos pp. (12/99).
The trip itself is pretty spectacular. We also saw 1 crocodile, plenty of birds, but unfortunately also a lot of rubbish like cola cans floating in the canyon. At the other end, we had a lunch break so the boatman could eat for free.
If you do this trip from San Cristobal, it's better to take your luggage and then continue your trip to Tuxtla and further on. There's no need to go all the way back to San Cristobal to collect your luggage and then go to Tuxtla. The night bus from San Cristobal to Oaxaca stops in Tuxtla, and it's possible to book your Tuxtla-Oaxaca ticket 1 day in advance in San Cristobal.
Getting out of San Cristobal
Plenty of collectivos to Tuxtla or Palenque. Here are some examples of fares and schedules: UNO buscompany: this is undoubtedly the best, since they only have 3 seats in a row, but of course price is also higher.
Mexico at 14.45: 740 Pesos
Cancun at 16.30: 458 Pesos
Oaxaca at 20.00: 282 Pesos
ADO buscompany is also quite good with modern busses, 4 seats in a row. They have a website.
Cancun at 14.30: 378 Pesos
Palenque at 18.00: 75 Pesos
Mexico at 15.30 and 18.00: 443 Pesos
Oaxaca at 17.00: 216 Pesos
Merida 9.30: 263 Pesos
Other buscompanies like Altos, San Cristobal Colon etc... are also possible with different schedules and similar prices.
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