Introduction
This is definitely the most popular place in the mountains, and almost all tours will at least spend a night here. Especially during weekends, the town gets invaded by tourists coming to visit the weekend market. We arrived there on Sunday evening (coming from the market in Bac Ha), and we had a great time.
Take into account that the weather can be awful. I must admit that we had good weather, and this will undoubtedly influence your perception of Sapa. We met people who didn't like, but they had 2,5 days of rain and only 1 morning of sunshine.
Also you must certainly go on a trekking for at least 1 day, otherwise you'll miss beautiful scenery.
Getting there
From Hanoi by road Hanoi – Sapa (370 km, 13 hours (bus) or 10 hours (jeep)
Good way but not so beautiful. This road will be taken by most tourgroups visiting the region for a few days. So keep in mind that if you book a 4 day tour, you will actually spend 2 days on the road.
Some tourcompanies understand this now and organise trips including trainride instead of bustrip, and this is certainly a better way not to loose too much time.
From Hanoi by train This is a better option of you're short on time. The big advantage is that you can take an overnight sleeper, thus saving on both time and accommodation.
Either you take a hard sleeper leaving every night both from Hanoi to Lao Cai and return. Make reservations early as these places fill up quickly. Price is about 17 US$ one way when booked in advance through a travel agent. For your return ticket to Hanoi, you can make an advance booking at travel agents like the Prince Hotel, but make sure to get there early, otherwise sleeping berths will be sold out.
Some points to remember however:
- Go for the lower berths: they are cooler then the top berths, and the luggage can be stored underneath the bed, so stealing is impossible.
- The train from Lao Cai to Hanoi arrives in Hanoi before 5 am, which is unreasonably early.
- Some travelcafés (like Kim) provide small mattresses which make the trip a little bit more comfortable (15 $ deposit is asked for).
Either you take the soft sleeper offered by Victoria hotels. This is much more comfortable, price is accordingly higher at 35 US$ one way. BTW, they let you sleep in Hanoi station till 8 am if you wish so. Disadvantage is that this trains has a more limited schedule. The Victoria Express train departs:
- Hanoi station every Monday, Wednesday & Friday evening.
- Return from Lao Cai station is every Tuesday, Thursday
morning and Sunday evening.
- For reservations, it's best to go to
the site of the Victoria hotels and book with them in advance.
Be Aware that there have been numerous reports of thefts on these overnight trains! Best thing to do is to reserve a bunk seat, because these provide storage space for your luggage, and keep luggage away from the windows (though there is now iron wiring on the windows, so theft through this way is now impossible). From the railway station to Sapa, you can either go with public transportation, rent a driver with motorbike or take the shuttle of Victoria hotels (6 US$ pp one way). There are also less expensive shuttles awaiting the bus (20.000 VND one way (10/2000). The motorbike drivers have gotten a reputation of stopping in the middle of the way asking for more money.
Lai Chau – Sapa (190km, +/- 7 hours) Very bad road, sometimes paved, no traffic, landslides possible, together with the Tuan Giao- Lai Chau part a very scenic drive.
Bac Ha - Sapa (93 km, 3 hours) There is public transportation available, but this will be uncomfortable and it'll be a long trip. It's more comfortable to try and find tourist transport. Especially on Sunday afternoon, this is no problem since a lot of day tourists coming from Sapa visit the Sunday market in Bac Ha, and they return around 2 pm. Ask around in the hotels in Sapa where the buses stop. Price is 5 US$ one way Bac Ha-Sapa
Places to stay
Important remark : During the weekend (Friday and Saturdaynight) a lot of tourists are coming from Hanoi to visit the Saturday market (high prices). During the week the hotels and guesthouses are almost empty and therefore cheaper. Choice enough !
The best place in town is definitely the
Victoria Hotel. It is a 4-star hotel offering all the comfort you could wish: rooms with even radiators (as it can get very cold in Sapa), bathroom with hot water, TV, fridge, safe in the room... They also have an indoor swimming pool and tennis court. Breakfast is a good buffet of noodles, eggs, cereals, fruit, pastries etc... Price is 80 US$ in the weekend, 60 US$ during the week for a double.
Check their website for more info and reservations. They also have package deals including their Victoria train.
Green Bamboo, tel. 020-871214 fax. 020-871214, 27 rooms, starting from 20 US$, reservations can be made in Hanoi at their travelagency. This guesthouse is popular among tourgroups, and also the Dutch travelagent NBBS puts their clients there. The setting of the guesthouse is stunning with great views over the valley. Still I think 20 US$ is exaggerated for their pretty basic rooms. They have a small TV and fridge, but the bathroom could be better for this price with the shower being next to the toilet (not separate). If you can do without the view, you'll get better rooms for half the price in the center of town (10/2000).
The
Prince Hotel in the center of town is one of these hotels offering equally good rooms for 10 US$ for a big double with decent bathroom including breakfast (the hotel was built in 2000). They also have triple rooms in the back for 6 US$. The manager is mister Hung, and he's a great guy. He also offers great tours and can arrange train reservations. Internet available for 2500 VND per minute (10/2000). You can mail him at
Hung.NV@FPT.VN.&n
bsp;
The
Queen guesthouse also has a good setting near the Green Bamboo guesthouse. We didn't go there, but we heard good reports, price is 10 US$ for a double with breakfast, ask for a room on 4th floor for a good view.
A new place is the
Gecko hotel. It's managed by a Frenchman. I've never been there myself, so I can't comment, but the owner says it's a 2-star hotel positioning itself between the Vietnamese guesthouses and the Victoria hotel. You can contact them at tel 020/87.15.04 and fax 020/87.18.98. They have e-mail at
the-gecko-sapa@hn.vnn.vn and a website at
http://thegeckosapa.multimania.com.
Restaurants
Camillia restaurant, after the indoor-market is said to be delicious by Footprint, but I was not that much much impressed.
Delta restaurant is a good and popular Italian restaurant offering all kind of dishes. Their food is good, but their pastas are rather expensive (count at least 50.000 VND).
Money Exchange
Make sure you change your money before you come to Sapa, especially if you only have traveller cheques. Prince hotel changes them but take 6% commission, Victoria even goes for 15 * for every cheque!
Prince hotel also takes Visa but charges 7% commission, Victoria accepts it without commission.
What to do
All the trips described here can be done with Mr. Hung at the prince hotel near the post office, but probably other cafés can do the same thing.
One Day special This is a trip offered by the Prince Hotel which is really great. You start around 8 am by jeep for a 20 minute jeep ride into the valley where also Green Bamboo guesthouse is set. During this ride you will see stunning views over the valley with the river, marvellous ricefields, small villages etc...After 20 minutes you stop and start walking towards the river. On the way you stop in 3 minority villages. You finish around 2 pm after a 12 km walk.
We absolutely loved this trip, although I must admit we had excellent weather, so this certainly adds to the fun. Physically we had no problems with this trip, but technically it's not always easy as the track can be really slippery at places, so it's best to have good hiking boots.
Price is 10 US$ pp (10/2000).
Xchingai and Cat Cat village This trip starts at 12.30 and finishes around 4 pm. First you take a short jeep ride, then you start walking and you stop at 2 villages. In Cat Cat you'll see a nice waterfall. We definitely liked this trip a bit less then the "One day special", but we did have a lot of rain, so at times it wasn't that funny anymore.
Price 5 US$ pp (10/2000).
Sunday Market in Bac Ha This trip costs 10 US$ return and includes a small trek to a nearby village.
Fansipan : The highest mountain (3143m) in Vietnam. Some touroperators offer a five day hike (3 days up, two days down) but this requires a good condition and equipment. I hope I can give you a report on this hike from a Canadian guy who did it.
- 1st day: trek and overnight at 2000 m
- 2nd day: trek and overnight at 2700 m
- 3rd day: trek to the summit, then back to Sapa
You can extend this trip with
- 3rd day: trek around SW of Fansipan
- 4rth day: climb to Fansipan and camp at 2900 m
- 5th day: back to Sapa
Taphin This is a popular town to visit. We didn't do it, so I can't comment. It's at 15 km from Sapa, a return trip by motorbike costs 25.000 VND, a jeep costs between 100.000 and 140.000 VND (10/2000).
Ban Ho This is a 2 day trip including 6 to 7 hours walking each day. the first day you visit 4 minority villages, and you spend the night in a Tay village. Price is 20 US$ including food, accommodation, permits, transport.
Ban Ho - Nan Jac 30 km ride by jeep, then 6 to 7 hours walking, return by jeep in the afternoon. Bamboo rafting if weather permits. 15 US$, minimum 3 persons.
Seo Mi Ti - Ta Trung Ho 4 days - 3 nights, 40 US$ pp.
8 hours of walk each day, only for fit people walking over mountains and rivers without bridges. Overnight in villages.
Market : Sapa is known for his market, especially the Saturday market when the hilltribe people are coming from nearby villages to sell their goods. It’s an easy way to look at the differently dressed ethnic minorities. On Saturdaynight also Hmong girls are singing in groups trying to get the attention of the Hmongboys. An interested boy will inspect a girls dress and if he is satisfied then ……This is the so-called "lover"market (only on Saturday).
During the week the market is more relax and almost tourist free. Then you see Sapa as it really is. It’s your choice when to go.
We didn't see the Saturday market, but people who compared the Bac Ha market with the Sapa said the Bac Ha market was much better: bigger and more colorful. We were not impressed with the Sapa market during the week.
Miscellaneous
During the winter the temperature in Sapa can drop under zero. Warm clothes are necessary.
Hmong sell handmade caps, shirts and trousers in blue and purple colors.
These colors are not fast-dyed. Look at some purple colored tourists and you know what I mean.
Some hotels have charcoal burners in their rooms. Be aware of carbon monoxide poisoning during the winter.
Go to NW Mountains For questions on N-Vietnam send an e-mail to
Steven Buvens or
myself, but please read the site first!!.
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