This section was written by Judy Burgess (7/99)
Introduction
Unlike many places in Bali, Tirtagangga has changed little in the past 6 years. There are a few more restaurants and places to stay but there are no resorts, no discos and few street sellers. It's a place where there is enough tourist development to give visitors a choice of restaurants and accommodation but not so much development that it has overwhelmed the gentle rhythms of Balinese village life. The atmosphere remains laid-back and the people there still have a genuine enthusiasm for ensuring that you enjoy your stay. Most businesses there are owned by locals so the money you spend when you stay there will stay in the community to help to support local families.
Tirtagangga's main tourist attraction is the
Water Palace - a complex of pools built by the local Rajah in 1947 - but there is enough to do in the area to keep you busy for a week or more. Most tourists come here only on day trips, so outside the main tourist season of late July-August, in the afternoons and evenings you are likely to find yourself part of only a handful of tourists staying in the area.
Where to stay
Most of the accommodation here is in the
lower price range, from around 50,000 to 60,000 rupiah a double (including breakfast). There are
a few more expensive places (Rice Terrace, Tirta Ayu and Cabe Bali). It's easy enough to check out the homestays that cluster around the Water Palace and along the main road but if you really want to get away from it all its worth staying at the village of the Ababi just a few minutes further down the road.
My personal favourite is the
Pondok Batur Indah in Ababi (tel:(0363) 22342). Its a small, friendly place with only 4 simple rooms but all have beautiful views and it's an easy walk along a track down the hill to Tirtagangga. If you phone from Tirtagangga the owner, Gede Wangsa, will come and pick you up. He speaks good English.
On the opposite hill in Ababi is
Geria Semilung (tel: (0363) 22116) - slightly more expensive but also with good views.
Where to eat
Good Karma has a well-deserved reputation for good food (especially fish) and friendly service.
Gangga cafe has a few variations on the standard tourist menu, including curries and a wide range of satays.
Puri Sawah has a lovely setting. Good for Western food such as yoghurt and salads.
Rijasa has cheap standard Indonesian/Western foods -its a favourite with the locals so its a good place just to hang out and chat to people. Guitar-players are always welcome.
Some of the homestays have particularly nice views so they are the places to head for drinks at sundown - try
Prima Bamboo or
Kusumajaya, or
Pondok Batur Indah or
Geria Semilung in Ababi.
If you want to try Balinese food, specialities such as smoked duck are sometimes available. Usually this has to be ordered in advance (so someone can go out and buy the duck!). Ask about it at
Pondok Batur Indah or
Good Karma.
Services
If you need a guide or transport, the
Rijasa is a good place to ask. Gede Wangsa, Ketut Kuta, Made Sudira and Nengah Dira(Leo) can all be contacted here. All are reliable guides who have lived in the area all their lives. They can arrange anything - from transport to Amed to climbing Mt Agung. Gede and Ketut both have their own vehicles.
The
Perama shuttle can be booked at Good Karma restaurant and
leaves from the carpark at the front of the restaurant.
Bemos can be flagged down anywhere and its easy to get to Amlapura, Tulamben or Singaraja. Other places require a change of bemo.
Post can be sent from the shop at the Purnama restaurant.
Money can be changed at the Puri Bali and opposite the Gangga restaurant but better rates are available at Candi Dasa moneychangers.
Tailor Ilo Putu in Ababi is an excellent dressmaker who can make traditional Balinese kebayas or copy a Western garment in a few days.
Basics toiletries and groceries are available from the Rijasa or other little warungs around the Water Palace. There is a small food market in Ababi in the morning every 3 days. For anything else you need to go to Amlapura.
What to do
Tirtagangga is a swimmers paradise - the big pools of the
Water Palace are an ideal place to swim long laps in cool water from underground springs.
Walks in the country side. You can stroll around the many paths that run between the rice fields but if you want to go further afield is worth taking a guide. There are many interesting possibilities such as the
walk to Budakeling, past blacksmiths shops to the temple (a more Buddhist-influenced form of Hinduism is practised here). Or
up to Pura Lempuyang -1000 steps but great views on a clear day. For the very fit,
treks up Mt Agung can be arranged.
Visit
Amlapura, the nearest town. Its an easy bemo trip from Tirtagangga and you can visit the Palace (Puri Kanginan), shop at the market (an excellent place to buy fabrics and everyday items cheaply). Make sure that you stop for some Balinese cakes and kopi at the little warung opposite the bemo station (no English spoken but the cakes are all displayed at the front of the shop so its easy enough to order).
Listen to a
local music performance. There's an interesting form of music that is heard only in NE Bali, called genjek. If there are a few tourists around it will usually be performed on Sunday evening. Ask at the Rijasa or Pondok Batur Indah.
Crafts - there are small workshops in the villages around Tirtagangga with craftsman who specialise in various crafts - wood carvers in Ababi, silver and goldsmith and blacksmiths in Budakeling. If you have a special interest in some aspect of Balinese culture ask about it - as this is a very traditional area there may well be an expert nearby.
Temple festivals. If there are temple festivals being held you are usually welcome to attend. You can ask about appropriate dress at your homestay. If you want to wear traditional costume this can be purchased at the market or made by the tailor in Ababi.
Around Tirtagangga
The coast at
Amed and Tulamben is only a half-hour away. There are good places for snorkelling and diving.
Ujung - an old water palace, more elaborate but more decrepit than the one in Tirtagangga.
Bebandem - an animal market is held here every 3 days.
Sideman - beautiful rice terrace views with lots of weaving workshops.
Tirtagangga also makes good base for
exploring North-East Bali - the temples at Besakih, the Kintamani volcano and the Bali Aga village of Tenganan all make easy day trips.
Go to Candi Dasa
