Introduction
The Wadi Hadramaut is of course one of the highlights of a visit to Yemen, and although it's not so easy (and also expensive) to get there, I think it's a must.
Getting to Wadi Hadramaut
By planeThis is by far the fastest and easiest way, but the price is accordingly. count on 250 US$ for a return trip.
By 4 WDThis is also very popular, but not much cheaper. Toyota landcruisers which van take up to 6 people do this trip starting from Marib. The trip for the group costs 250 US$ for the bedouins and takes 5 to 7 hours, this excludes the price of the car. You could opt to visit Shabwa on the way, but this is only possible if the southern route is declared safe. Don't let them talk you into spending a night in the desert. It will make the trip more expensive (+100 US$), and it's not really recommended. If you take the northern route, you will stay in a tent next to a road used by heavy trucks, not really my idea of fun.
The trip starts at 3 am. The driver will stop for his prayer before sunset. It's a nice sight to see sunset in the desert, camels passing by...
It's more difficult to do this trip the other way round.
By bus from Al MukallaThe bus leaves early in the morning and costs 350 YR (5/98).
A shared taxi is 600 YR (5/98).
Getting around
It's easy to get around by shared taxi:
- Seyun-Tarim: 100 YR
Hotels
The Tower Trading Hotel (Al burj) charges 1750 YR for a double including bathroom, AC (does not always work, but they have a ventilator as well), TV and breakfast. They have a swimming pool of 20 m and garden (5/98). Tel and fax 403575. Recommended.
The As Salam hotel has rooms ranging from 1200 to 2400 YR, but the cheaper ones are OK
already. This includes bathroom, but not breakfast (200 YR extra). They also have a swimming pool and garden.
In Tarim, most people stay at the Qasr al Qubba palace hotel. It's situated out of the center, and was built in 1995. It has a marvellous garden with swimming pool and charges 1680 YR for a double with AC, breakfast is extra at 214 YR pp. A 3 course meal will cost about 750 YR (6/98).
The Pension Brother is a cheaper alternative, next to the palace in the city center.
What to do
Seyun
Seyun is a cosy city, and a good base to visit the Wadi Hadramaut.
Don't miss the museum. It has pictures of a Dutchman who was there in 1931. You'll see things haven't changed that much. The shop of the museum has some nice things, and the lemon juice is super.
Shibam
This is the highlight of your trip, the "Manhattan of the desert".
Tarim
This is also worth a visit with its 365 mosques. Children can get nasty throwing small stones when you get your camera out.
Getting out to Al Mukalla
You could take the fast option and simply take a bus to Al Mukalla.
But a better way is to go via Wadi Do'an. you can spend the night in Al Khuraybay, but you need a rental car for this. There are plenty of travel agencies offering a return trip to Al Hajarayn, but this is not so spectacular. There's a new hotel, the Riboun Hotel (1997) in Sief charging charging too much (1300 YR pp). They have 3 big rooms with mattresses, sheets and blankets. It's clean, common bathroom, nice settings but close to the mosque.
If you want to read an interesting travelogue written by Joel Neelen, click here. His trip dates from 1995.
